High (up) in Huaraz

Huaraz is a funny little town made up of red raw-brick houses, many only half-built but already inhabited, and all with brightly coloured washing flapping on roof-top washing lines. Many of the streets are also ‘under construction’ (although the situation seems semi-permanent), muddy and strewn with random piles of gravel, paving stones and lumps of dug-up concrete. Walking around can be a challenge, especially after rain, despite the fact that the resourceful locals have constructed makeshift walkways from boards and concrete blocks. Only the main street is reasonably well-kept, and lined with tour agency after tour agency. During the high season, Huaraz is one of Peru’s most popular ‘adventure tourism’ centres, the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca (the second highest mountain range in the world, after the Himalaya) drawing throngs of mountaineers, climbers and trekkers between May and September. But during the rest of the year, the little town is pretty dead – apparently a lot of the tour operators shut up shop and head for the coast J But despite its slightly desolate feel, the town is still special – because it is located among some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. There are over 20 summits over 6000m in the area, including Perú’s highest peak Hauscarán (6768m) and the picture-perfect Artesonraju ( 5999m - rumour has it that it was the inspiration for the Paramount Picture logo). And in addition to awe-inspiring peaks, the area around Huarez also boasts glaciers, jewel-like alpine lakes and some of the oldest ruins in Perú. Although we had originally only planned our stay in the area as a stop-over on the way north, we quickly decided to stay a few days and explore a little. 

Armed with directions from our friendly host Emilio, we headed off early on our first day to hike up to Laguna Churup, 4450m above sea level. After a bone-rattling colectivo ride up to Pitec, around an hour from Huaraz, we began the (literally) breathtaking ascent.  The hike up was an adventure in itself, offering beautiful views as we climbed up a steep valley to the base of a narrow waterfall, then a series of steep, slippery climbs up wet granite rock walls, aided in some places by cables bolted into the rock-face. We arrived at the top with fingers stiff and cold from holding on to the cold rock and metal, legs aching and knees shaking. All this was immediately forgotten when we breasted the last rise and were rewarded by the sight of the lake itself; a tiny little jewel of a lagoon, changing colour from slate grey to azure blue to jade green depending on the movements of the sun and clouds,  surrounded by rugged rock walls and crowned by the towering snow-capped peak of Mt Churup (5493m). Rugged up in all our warm gear against the mountain chill, we sat mesmerised the play of reflections and colours in the lagoon’s crystal-clear waters for quite some time before thick dark clouds started rolling in over the surrounding peaks, forcing us to retreat to lower (and warmer) ground. 

Starting our hike from Pitec - on the left the bone-breaker of a bus that brought us up - one of the seats fell out on the way! :P

Upwards - the thin air didn't help at all..

Looking back down into the valley floor - we have come a long way up already - but still a long way to go

Our fist glimpse of crystal-clear Laguna Churup (if only it was warm enough for a dip!)

Soaking up the amazing reflections

Mount Churup reflected perfectly in the lagoon

The sun making the lake change colour and light up...amazing

Our fellow hikers reflected in the lake

After an early night and an altitude-induced deep sleep, we were up again at the crack of dawn the next day to catch a bus up and over the backbone of the Cordillera Blanca to the next highlight of the area - Chavín de Huantar. Nestled in a picture perfect valley lined with a patchwork-quilt of irregularly shaped fields in every shade of green you can imagine, the ruins of Chavín were built more than 3000 years ago by one of the continent’s oldest civilisations. The ruins are the remains of a holy city, including two central ceremonial squares, several temples and a maze of underground tunnels, many lined with etchings of pumas, condors, serpents and humans in differing stages of mystical and hallucinogenic transformations - the high ‘priests’ of the culture are said to have used the San Pedro cactus to reach a high(er) J plane of existence and commune with the gods. The walls of the temples were studded with stylised masks of half human/half animal faces, some of them with the bulging, rolling eyes and bleeding noses characteristic of those under the influence of the psychedelic plant. Crawling through low, narrow underground passages, we saw the original ancient Lanzon, the carved granite monolith representing the Chavín’s principal deity, a mixture of man, puma and condor, a literal pillar of strength; apparently it cannot be removed from its present location, as it was built in such a way that its removal would result in the collapse of the walls and roof of the entire tunnel structure (sounds like something straight out of an Indiana Jones film!)

On our way through the mountains to Chavín

The patchwork-quilt valley which is home to Chavín

A scale model of the site of Chavín - the lower square was for the 'lower' citizens, only the higher priests were allowed in the nigher, circular plaza where magical ceremonies involving sacrifice and hallucinogens took place 

Our very informative and enthusiastic guide Tito - telling us stories with impressive sound effects and wild gestures :)

Serpent steps in the ancient ruins (snakes are apparently a symbol for wisdom)

The main ceremonial square in Chavín - it is built on top of an impressive system of water channels used to create roaring noises to terrify and impress the 'lower' citizens 

One of the oldest ceremonial sites in Chavín - originally lined with intricately carved panels and presided over by a giant carved stone obelisk which now resides in the nearby museum  

The Obelisk - carved with symbols of power, including pumas, condors and the decapitated heads of enemies

One of the many carved panels which previously lined the walls of Chavín

An artist's rendition of the main ceremonial site, complete with carved paneling and shell trumpets

The holy Lanzon - symbolic and literal pillar of strength

Inside the extensive tunnel system under Chavín

During our tour and later in the adjacent museum (VERY impressive, founded by the Japanese government in 2008) we heard stories of animal and human sacrifice, of extensive astronomical knowledge, and of how the high priests retained control over the masses – using mystical noises produced by shell trumpets, and a sophisticated system of water channels running down from the mountains underneath the city to create intimidating roaring reverberations, supposedly messages from the gods. We were seriously impressed these exceptional feats of 3000-year old engineering; towering walls, mazes of tunnels and hidden chambers which have withstood not only time, but numerous violent earthquakes which destroyed many of the surrounding towns. It seems modern man would do well to take some building lessons from these ancient architects!

Shell trumpets used in Chavín ceremonies - transported all the way from Ecuador - proof of the extent of the Chavín culture's influence

One of the masks depicting a 'high' priest - the rolling eyes and bleeding nose are indications of the use of San Pedro cactus as a hallucinogen

Evidence of the brutality of the Chavín culture - a drinking vessel depicting the decapitation of an enemy

We arrived in Huaraz not expecting much, but the breathtaking mountains, brilliant lakes and extraordinary history made us wonder why the area is considered to be ‘off-the-beaten-track’ – although after our tourist-trap-overload in Cusco, the relative emptiness of the place only added to its appeal! At the risk of ruining the tranquility of the area – we can really recommend a visit to the Cordillera Blanca.